Daily Fishing and Outdoor Report

Tuesday, February 23, 2021: Tons below. Much of what I place in here is me randomly ....

Not waxing unsympathetic, but this guy gets the award for being able to rather comfortably bed down anywhere ... 

Tuesday, February 23, 2021: Tons below. Much of what I place in here is me randomly writing, a verbalizing outlet for pent up energy. I'd surely be writing this even if blogging didn’t exist, though it’s a blog blast to also be communicating with a slew of you. A share here and there helps, though I know many folks would rather not let it be known they dare visit here. Below: Just one of my regular readers looking for a place to open his laptop for a visit to my blog. 


IT BLOWS – POSSIBLY A FAIR WIND: Wind farms are about to be planted off our NJ coastal region. Considering an Ørsted farm is just about a done deal, it’s headshakingly pathetic to hear come-lately people now suddenly up in arms, all “What can we do about this?”

You missed the pissed off boat, latecomers. You should have been reading The SandPaper going back, like five years or more.

At this foregone-conclusion point, it will best serve all involved to simply let things unfold in the Ørsted build off Atlantic City, seeing it as a test run, surely offering exacting reads of why -- or why not -- more farms should be planted off the Garden State. In nothing flat, the upcoming wind power effort will rather rapidly indicate whether or not this form of natural renewable energy will work or be lacking profitability or too damaging to the ecology to allow more farms to be built.

I’ve heard it said this AC build will be an East Coast first. Far from it. The Block Island Wind Farm in Rhode Island (below) was America’s first offshore wind farm. It began operations in December 2016.

I believe the NJ build might be set to become the largest American offshore wind farm to date. Below" Proposed .(Computerized image) ...

Another Setback for Proposed Atlantic City Wind Farm – Next City

A quick terminology thing. When anglers hear “offshore,” we immediately think, well, offshore offshore, as in the canyons and such. Apparently not so in the wind industry, which speaks of offshore windfarms located squarely within an oceanic realm we call nearshore.

I brought up this contradiction in offshore/onshore terms with Ørsted and was told the offshore term was assigned by the US government. Since Ørsteders hail from Fredericia, Denmark, they speak a ton of Danish. I therefore believe they didn’t forward the term offshore since in Danish it would be fralands, which has a Germanic feel as a place far/fra from land.  

I hate to seem unpatriotic to my native tongue, but I think it would sound quite cool if we routinely said we’re going tuna fishing in the fralands. We could even say, “We’re going fralanding. Wanna go?” If we nab a yellowfin, we can easily sustain a Danish feel using their word for tuna, tunfisk.

Before departing Denmark, I must send some belated congrats to the Ørsted company for having recognized its former company name might not fly so well in many sections of the world, not the least of which, New Jersey. Imagine if Ørsted  had stayed the Danish Oil and Natural Gas, which openly displayed as DONG. Those opposed to the NJ windfarms would have had a heyday.

Dong Energy soars 12% after IPO trading

I’ll be watching to see if this shot at nearshore renewable power impacts the marine ecosystem, damaging it severely or offering a degree of sanctuary to fisheries and such. Everything is on the table when it comes to interpreting the impacts of the Ørsted effort.   As I told commercial fishing buddy, I will be the first to sound off if things go south, yet never abandoning the world-saving concept of renewable energy sources.

One angle I will never accept is wind farms harming tourism one micro jot. Numerically speaking, nary a single soul will forego trips to LBI due to wind turbines on the horizon. In fact, tourism and living on LBI will only get more popular, admittedly pricing some of us off in the process.

DROPPING THE BASS BALL: The 2020 bass numbers for the state’s Bonus Bass Program, which allows an extra striper as small as 24 inches to be kept (after some strict paperwork and hooping jump-throughs), were the highest since 2004. Sorry, but that’s not saying much.

Last year, NJ anglers harvested 33,524 pounds, via 5,189 fish. That is only 15.5 % of the allotted quota. For the umpteenth year in a row, we didn’t put more than a grazing dent in the number of bonus bass we could take. That was made more pathetic after considering it was a damn decent striper year. 

Fishing groups, like the Jersey Coast Angler Association, have long tried to devise ways to make that annual allotment more attainable. Even nabbing half the allotment would be a coup. 

The rec poundage hails from a mute commercial allocation. Since NJ doesn’t allow commercial harvesting of stripers, it would seem a great thing that the recreationalists get the whole striper take to ourselves. Call us profoundly unappreciative, close to not giving rat’s patootie.   

As state anglers fail to come anywhere near the bonus bass program allotment, it’s not like we get reimbursed -- or have the underage accumulate year after year. Hell, if we could accumulate untaken quota poundage, like vacation days, every ten years or so we could have one insane bass harvesting year, with stripers as small as 18 inches (below) being invited to the blast. Instead, it is thought that our unused bass poundage makes its way into the undeserving hands of fishermen in other states. That’s bogus … and will likely remain so through 2021.

18-inch Striper off of Santa Barbara | Striper, Fishing tournaments, Striped bass



Heading toward the mainland woods, all this snow and rain should be a total boon to amphibian life – and an inviting cruise-about for canoeists, kayakers and, most recently, SUP’ers. The creeks and rivers are running at a fine clip and should remain navigable until who knows when – since there are still some storms on the horizon, though they’re not training toward us like we saw over the past month or so. Vernal/spring ponds (below) should be filled to the gills. 

NJDEP Division of Fish & Wildlife - New Jersey's Vernal Pools

Of course, we’re about to page our way into March, which has been known to deliver some holy-s*** hits. Although the March Storm will likely hold the top spot for March hits, we’ve also taken snow hits to the tune of 20 inches plus – and not that many years back. Overall, though, the upper level skies indicate some warmup, which will seem more inviting after this ongoing bout with close-to-true winter conditions.

BLACK WALNUT TREE NECTAR: Trailing off into the deeper wilds, I’ll note it should be an astounding year for those of us tapping black walnut trees for sap-instilled juices. You read right. We’re not much on sugar maples, if at all. However, we have many a walnut tree of world-class dimensions. The spring juices are absolutely amazing as both an (eventual) syrup and a multiuse naturopathic medicine, though not forwarding them in a medicinal way since such usages need a ton of knowledge/understanding prior to using routinely them. The syrup usage is far sweeter.

Below: The common summer look of a walnut tree leaves and fruit. 

Black Walnut Tree

It's fall foliage look: 

Walnut Tree a Great Resource in Yard Landscaping

You know you're near one when you see the fallen nuts: 

By next month, I’ll show a couple of my walnut tree tappings in here. In the meantime, here’s a decent video (out of many) offering an entry-level look the process. Closely note the requirement that tap holes be plugged, best down with a small piece of branch being shaped at one end to just fit the hole, before hammering it in to stop the flow – lest the poor tree just keep weeping out juices. How much juice can come through a tiny tap. This video shows the remarkable amounts, three gallon overnight from a small bore. I would never remove more than a couple gallons.


YOTE SPEAK: I can’t shake the coyote subject since it comes knocking on a daily basis, seeking a handout. While it took a while to play out, my anticipated rush of winter coyote sightings has gone a bit gonzo. In just two days, I received three quite-clear pics of four different ‘yotes. All were taken from oceanfront cams. One shows an obvious mated pair zipping along the duneline of Holgate, seemingly seeking the wilds of the refuge to ready for denning.

I wrote on Facebook:

“This pair sure seems headed south. While coyotes are crafty, they have allegedly gone head-first into north end snares. I'll agree that most LBI females are preggie as we speak; even those lost to trapping will be replaced by recruits. Pups will be forthcoming, good news for those of us favoring a sensible Island presence of canids, including foxes. That said, the refuge presents an all too inviting den location, which is almost always in more desolate areas.

Here's a look at the video: 


“In the past, the refuge has resorted to various means to eliminate pretty much any and all bird predators, be they canids, minks, otters or felines. It's defined as a necessary action, meant to benefit threatened and endangered bird species, which will begin arriving fairly soon. I was once told that gas canisters had been used to control foxes. Not certain that method is still in play. However, per the Endangered Species and Wilderness acts, the refuge must make all efforts to protect the likes of piping plovers even if it means eliminating more common species. I'm taking no stance, just explaining things as they've been explained to me.”

I’m not sure we’ll ever get the final count of snared coyotes in BL. While word has it that four were collected (DOA) after just the first night of snaring – snares are checked at sunrise – I’m not sure where that count came from. Obviously, it has taken on a life of its own considering folks as far away as Maine know about that tally.

I now know to check dunelines for track evidence of passing-thru coyotes. I’ll re-mention that I’m surprised at the fewness of tracks over at the Dike, though they would be hard to see among the tracks of domestics – and a fine pet walkabout is offered by the east-facing beachline of the Dike, though I have found many a plop unbagged. Gives a bad name to dog walkers – and serves a slap in the face to conscientious poop picker-uppers, a majority.




Editor’s Log: Talking In Circles

New Jersey’s back bay striped bass fishery reopens this month.  As I understand it, the original reason for the January/February closure is to provide protection for larger stripers that winter over in water bodies like the Great Egg, Mullica and Raritan where fish may be highly susceptible to harvest before the spring spawn.

Ordinarily I’d ask the New Jersey Division of Fish and Wildlife (DFW) and its parental advisors at the Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) for background history, but the current administration isn’t keen on sharing information (see News Briefs for more).  In fact some outdoor media folks now refer to the DEP Press Office as the Pull Office since getting fisheries information out of the Murphy administration is like pulling teeth.  To those who’ve emailed questions regarding the new circle hook regulations, I apologize; I wasn’t ignoring you, it’s simply that the DEP/DFW is in over their collective heads.

Effective January 1, anglers are required to use non-offset (inline) circle hooks in all waters when fishing for striped bass with natural bait.  Nineteen days after the new rule went into effect the DFW website was finally updated with answers to a few questions posed by the striper community.  For folks looking to rig up bloodworms along the sedges and river banks starting March 1, you may find this information useful.

First of all, the new circle hook requirement only applies to anglers specifically fishing for striped bass with natural baits.  “Natural bait” by the DEP/DFW definition includes “any living or dead organism (including land-based animals) or parts thereof, attached to a hook to be used as bait,” which applies to pork rinds but not to plastics or Gulp!  Thus, if you’re attaching any natural bait to the hook of a lure then a non-offset circle hook is required.

Deer hair on a bucktail?  According to DEP/DFW, a bucktail with real deer hair is a jig so a circle hook is not required since you are not attaching the deer hair to the hook “as bait.”  Of course, if you’re attaching a natural bait to the hook of that bucktail, then you’ll have use a circle hook bucktail jig (believe it or not, they exist!)

Can you still snag bunker for bait?  “Yes, you can use another hook type (e.g. treble hook) to snag menhaden,” is the word from DEP/DFW.   However, once you’ve snagged a bait, you have to transfer it to a circle hook to target stripers.  Since you can only fish live menhaden or chunked bait on a circle hook, “Snag and Drop” fishing for striped bass is now prohibited.

Those old baitholder style j hooks you’ve used for years when fishing bloodworms and clams from shore for spring stripers need to put away.  While writing this in early February, I’m still awaiting word from the major hook manufacturers as to the availability of baitholder style circle hooks specifically for rigging soft baits.

For more rigging information, check out my article in the glossy section called Of Circles & Stripers: Tips & Tactics For Hooking Up.  You’ll also find more information in News Briefs starting on the next page that focuses on gear and tactics, as well as some follow-up information from the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission.

But for now, I’ll leave with three things to remember when hitting the sedges this month for stripers.  One, keep the hook gap (area between hook point and shaft) and the throat (area from gap to hook bend) clear of bait to allow the circle hook to do its thing.  Two, don’t set the hook; by design a circle hook should do its thing on its own when a striper makes a run with the bait.  And three, don’t bother asking the DEP Pull Office for advice, unless you enjoy getting jerked around in circles.

 2021 Recreational NJ Summer Flounder

 Season Options 

Imagine doing hard time as a catfish smuggler. Hell, if it's under year, no sweat. It would take inmates easily that long to figure how they should even handle such a con. "You sure you didn't also murder someone?" "Nope." " "OK, everyone back in my cell to work on this some more. Not you, Mahmud, you, you ... catfish smuggler."

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Four employees of Maspeth, New York, U.S.A.-based Asia Foods Distributor Inc. have been charged with running a smuggling operation that brought catfish into the United States illegally.

Mahmud Chowdhury, Shakil Ahmed, Belayet Hussain, and Firoz Ahammad were charged with catfish smuggling and conspiracy by the Office of the United States Attorney for the Southern District of New York following a joint investigation by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security’s Investigations Department (HSI), NOAA Fisheries’ Office of Law Enforcement, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Inspector General, according to a press release.

“Something smelled fishy, and this investigation led to this transnational criminal organization as the center of an alleged smuggling operation moving multiple shipments of catfish from prohibited countries into our ports to further a very lucrative scheme,” HSI Special Agent-in-Charge Peter C. Fitzhugh said. “It is a major concern when food entering the U.S. does not meet our strict health and safety guidelines, and HSI New York, working with CBP and our law enforcement partners, will continue to protect the public from potentially contaminated, diseased, or adulterated food products and bring to justice those who choose to line their pockets at the expense of our food supply chain.”

The four defendants were arrested on Friday, 19 February and have made an initial appearance before Judge Katharaine H. Parker, of the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York. Each faces up to 25 years in prison.

The scheme allegedly involved bringing mislabeled siluriformes fish in from Myanmar and Bangladesh between January 2018 through October 2019, listing other species of fish in the shipping documents and in commercial invoices, according to the charging documents. A customs inspection performed in 2019 led to the discovery of the scheme, and an investigation of Asia Food Distributor’s warehouse and through site inspections conducted in the stores of the company’s customers, and shipping containers coming into the U.S. revealed additional amounts of illegally imported catfish.  Investigators also found evidence documenting explicit instructions from AFD to foreign exporters “about how to avoid the detection of their scheme and the accompanying risk of potential arrest and imprisonment,” according to the joint release.

John Petrizzo, the chairman of NFI’s Better Seafood Board and director of operations for Harbor Seafood, applauded the arrests.

“This is a great example of agencies focusing enforcement efforts on fish fraud and having an impact. Here we see the United States Attorney, Department of Homeland Security, NOAA’s Office of Law Enforcement and USDA’s Inspector General all working together to investigate and prosecute these suspects. Dedicating those kinds of resources to a fish fraud case sends a loud and clear message,” Petrizzo said. “We don’t need new laws or more regulations, we need enforcement and that’s what we are seeing today from these federal agencies. Hats off to them and their efforts to stamp out fish fraud.”

Siluriformes, which actually is comprised of several different species including pangasius and basa, has faced higher barriers to entry into the U.S. as a result of regulatory changes passed in 2017 and championed by the U.S domestic catfish industry.

“This case demonstrates the importance of our cooperation with U.S. government partners to interdict illegal products before they enter the country,” NOAA-OLE Northeast Division Assistant Director Timothy Donovan said. “OLE continues to work to protect consumers and fishermen from seafood fraud and the illegal importation of seafood through initiatives like our Seafood Import Monitoring Program.”

'Ropeless' Lobster Fishing Could Save The Whales. Could It Kill The Industry?

Copyright © 2021 npr /  KNAU Arizona Public Radio
By Eve Zuckoff
February 22, 2021

After three decades of fishing for lobsters in Cape Cod Bay in Massachusetts, Rob Martin knows his boat inside and out.

"It's only 40 feet. It was big when I first got it and now it seems small," he says while warming up inside the cabin on a cold morning.

Just as Cape Cod lobstermen have done for centuries, Martin used to check his traps by looking for buoys connected to cages on the ocean floor by ropes.

But his buoys are gone and he is one of a handful of Massachusetts lobstermen testing ropeless fishing systems.

"Everything's ready to go," he calls out as the boat idles about a half-mile outside the Cape Cod Canal, near where he last dropped his traps.

With one hand Martin reaches for a pair of waterproof overalls and with the other he grabs his iPhone to open an app that sends acoustic signals to his traps 50 feet underwater.

"I'm hitting the release command," he explains. "Release!"

In seconds, the app lets out two quick beeps confirming that somewhere down below an air tank inside a trap is inflating a balloon that lifts the trap to the surface. Martin looks out across the water quietly, waiting for something to appear.

"Oh! There it is," he says as a long bright-orange balloon pops out of the water, resembling one of those blow-up tubes dancing outside of a car dealership.

By using this technology, Martin eliminates the need to use vertical ropes which can be deadly for North Atlantic right whales diving for food. Rope entanglement is a leading cause of death for the mammals that can weigh as much as 70 tons. In fact, more than 85% of right whales have been entangled in fishing gear at least once, the majority multiple times, according to a report from the New England Aquarium.

Today, with an estimated 370 North Atlantic right whales remaining, the species is classified by the IUCN Red List as critically endangered, one step from extinction.

To save the whales from the brink, state authorities have instituted seasonal fishing closures in waters off New England. More protections from the National Atmospheric and Oceanic Administration, which some fishermen consider burdensome, are still pending.

Conservationists hope that fishermen like Rob Martin can prove ropeless fishing can save both the whales and the lobster industry.

Many lobstermen, though, say they prefer the closures to the technological leap they would have to make to adopt ropeless fishing.

"The technology is just like ... we're at the Model T today and people expect us to be at the Tesla tomorrow," explains Beth Casoni, who is executive director of the Massachusetts Lobstermen's Association. She also says the cost is prohibitive — switching to ropeless gear could cost a single fisherman up to $70,000.

Another major concern is safety. Without buoys on the surface marking where lobster gear is located underwater, fishing boats that drag nets along the seafloor can get caught on lobstermen's traps. Ropeless technology manufacturers said they're still working on developing a shared app so fishermen have a clear picture of trap locations on the ocean floor. Casoni says that's necessary before her association will seriously consider going ropeless.

"We need a large-scale, scientific, unbiased feasibility study on the whole thing," Casoni says. "We need to put five boats out in a big square, fishing ropeless, mobile gear, and see what really happens."

Despite these challenges, Martin says he wants to continue his federally-funded tests.

After all, he has been catching lobsters using the new technology.

"That's a female with eggs," he says pointing to the underbelly of one of the lobsters that came up in a trap. "[It] has to be thrown back."

Martin understands the stakes: If right whales keep dying at current rates, the species could reach a point in the next 20 years from which it can't recover. And if regulators shut down the entire lobster fishery in order to save the whales, lobstermen could face their own kind of extinction.

USDA, FDA Issue Joint Statement: “No Transmission of COVID-19 Through Food or Food Packaging”

February 19, 2021

Last week the World Health Organization (WHO) issued a new report after investigating the origins of COVID-19 in China. According to their findings, the research team found no evidence linking a bat to the start of the global pandemic. Instead, WHO’s teams claims that the coronavirus may have originated in frozen meat. FDA Deputy Frank Yiannis immediately responded to the report, writing on Twitter that “there is no credible evidence of food, food containers, or food packaging being associated with or a likely source of transmission of COVID-19.” Now, the USDA and FDA have issued a rare joint statement, once again confirming that current epidemiologic and scientific information indicates no transmission of COVID-19 through food or food packaging. 

After more than a year since the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) outbreak was declared a global health emergency, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention continue to underscore that there is no credible evidence of food or food packaging associated with or as a likely source of viral transmission of severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2), the virus causing COVID-19,” the statement from acting USDA Secretary Kevin Shea and Acting FDA commissioner Janet Woodcock, M.D., reads.

“Our confidence in the safety of the U.S. food supply remains steadfast. Consumers should be reassured that we continue to believe, based on our understanding of currently available reliable scientific information, and supported by overwhelming international scientific consensus, that the foods they eat and food packaging they touch are highly unlikely to spread SARS-CoV-2.”

The statement goes on to reiterate that COVID-19 is a respiratory illness that is spread from person-to-person, unlike foodborne or gastrointestinal viruses, like norovirus and hepatitis A, which can make people sick through contaminated food. 

Lisa Weddig, Vice President for Regulatory and Technical Affairs at the National Fisheries Institute, released a response to the USDA and FDA’s joint statement. 

“Today’s statement is an example of experts adhering to science and translating that high-level understanding into an important public health message,” said Weddig. “From epidemiologists to biologists, authorities are confident in the safety of the seafood supply and, what’s more, health experts cite seafood’s role in supporting a healthy immune system.”

From the Docks to the eBay – Will Online Marketplaces Save the Fishing Industry?

Copyright © 2021 The Observer
By Ed Cumming
February 22, 2021

On a bracing January morning in Hastings, the British fishing industry feels becalmed. Just weeks after Brexit, exporters are ensnared in red tape, newspapers are full of doom about fish rotting in warehouses, and lorries are being held in two-day queues. Here on the south coast, Covid restrictions have closed most of the shacks that normally dole out oysters, dressed crab, potted shrimp and other local delights. None of the 20 or so boats that make up the Hastings inshore fleet have gone out, either, for a more old-fashioned reason: the weather. It’s rare they are able to fish on more than 150 days of the year, and today is not one of them. There’s a persistent icy drizzle, and a grey sea tumbles chaotically onto the beach.

Despite the unpromising conditions, Ben King is trying to see the upside. For the past three years, the start-up he co-founded with Aiden Berry,Pesky Fish, has been working to connect fishermen directly with wholesalers, retailers, restaurants and home chefs, cutting out traditional middlemen. Using Pesky’s online marketplace, a kind of piscine eBay, customers can buy fish from Britain’s inshore fleet as soon as it’s landed, and get it delivered anywhere in the country the next day. Some are offered with a “buy it now” price, algorithmically generated; the rest is sold by auction. The promise is alluring: better value for the customer, the freshest fish going and a higher price for the fishermen. Pesky Fish sells more than two tonnes of fish per day from Britain’s day boats and artisanal fish farmers.

“People will paint a dour narrative of the industry, but in a longer-term view, the past couple of months have been amazing,” King says. “We’ve had the opportunity to speak to fishermen and buyers, and ask them what they would want their market experience to be, in an ideal world. We’re at an inflection point. The industry is not going to regress.”

Pesky has come a long way. “I originally wanted to do the seafood version of Flatiron,” says King, alluding to the group of low-cost, high-quality steak restaurants. “It would be financially accessible and also provide a traceability narrative, so you could tell where your fish had come from. It was predicated on my naivety. Slowly I realised that we couldn’t do it in seafood because there wasn’t real traceability in the supply chain. The quality was all over the shop.” He kept asking himself questions. “Why is the fish we eat 2-3 weeks old? Why has it had to pass through four or five pairs of hands to get to my plate? Why is 80% of it imported? It didn’t make sense and it became an itch that never went away.”

After delivering its first fish in November 2017, a turbot for Shaun Rankin at Ormer Mayfair in London, Pesky grew quickly, raising money through venture capital and spending time with Techstars, a company that helps start-ups by offering connections and expertise in exchange for equity. Its reputation among chefs spread by word of mouth and anattractive Instagram presence, full of gleaming sides of salmon and grizzled men holding bass. One early adopter was Jeremy Chan, the chef-owner of Ikoyi, the Michelin-starred restaurant in London’s Piccadilly.

“It was a different product altogether,” says Chan. “The fish was basically still alive. It started to change our way of working with fish. We became more spontaneous and adaptable, and let them dictate what fish we would put on our menu based on availability. I’d get a call saying: ‘I’ve got a 6kg turbot, do you want it?’ It would be in the restaurant the next evening.” Part of the challenge, he adds, is letting customers know about the quality of what we have on our doorstep: “Britain is a Neanderthal food culture,” he says, “but a bountiful island for seafood and wildlife.”

After starting with individual boats, Pesky has expanded to work with whole ports, Hastings being the most recent addition. At first Berry and King focused on restaurants and wholesalers, but when Covid-19 struck they set up a direct home delivery service, taking advantage of the surge in interest that saw independent food shops’ sales rise more than 63% in the months after lockdown. On the main marketplace, fish is sold in minimum 10kg crates, but the home delivery market allows customers to buy individual fish off the day boats, as well as high-end farmed products, such as mussels from the River Teign, or Wester Ross salmon, smoked with heather honey by Iain Boyd in Ullapool. King says only around half their business is in London, and they’re having as much success outside big cities, where fishmongers have closed and supermarkets might have shut their fish counters.

“We were looking for a fish supplier for ages, then we read about Pesky in the Observer [in last year’s OFM50, our annual guide to new people, places and trends],” says Stefano Cuomo, who runs the Macknade artisan food halls in Kent. “We like our produce to have that direct relationship with the community, so customers could engage with the produce and understand it. You can do that online, but really it happens over the counter. We don’t stock tuna or cod, we stock sole and mackerel and cuttlefish, and we can tell customers exactly where it has come from and how to cook it.”

The sunlit uplands where British consumers start buying, eating and appreciating their own seafood is simpler in theory than in practice. Pesky is cheaper than most fishmongers, but more expensive than supermarkets. Forty years of integration into the EU means our fish is locked into a labyrinth of regulations, trade agreements and processing systems that will take years to reverse.

One gripe from people in the industry is that British fish is more prized on the continent, or even further afield in east Asia or the US, than it is here. Dover sole, crab and lobster are exported to restaurants in Europe, while our cheaper fish is sent to Germany, turned into fish fingers, and reimported. Partly it’s tradition. French restaurants will happily sell four small Dover soles as a dish, while the British customer expects one large fillet. It’s also about tastes. If an agent doesn’t think he can sell a fish to merchants, he won’t buy it off the fishermen. By cutting out intermediary layers, Pesky is helping revive unfashionable options. “Take pouting,” says King. “It used to be a bycatch, but now places like Smoking Goat are using it where they might have used cod. It’s cheaper for the customer, and the overall catch is more valuable.”

Changing customer habits will take time. For now, everyone must contend with Brexit and Covid. “It’s a double sucker-punch,” says Paul Joy, who has been fishing these waters for more than 42 years, and now runs the Hastings Fishermen’s Protection Society from a small office overlooking the beach. A few days before we meet, fishermen protested in Parliament Square against the Brexit agreement, which they feel has betrayed them. Fishing rights were one of the sticking points in the months leading up to the December deadline. Joy and Mark Ball, like most of the industry, were strongly in favour of Brexit, which they hoped might address long-held grievances. Both men started fishing before the UK joined the EU and remember an era before quotas and overfishing and Belgian super-trawlers running up alongside their little boats. “I started when I left school,” says Ball, “and by the time I was 20 I had my own boat. You could make a living. You couldn’t do that today.”

Joy agrees. “Before we joined the EU, my family had been fishing here sustainably for 1,000 years,” he says. With the Brexit deal fishermen have ended up with the worst of all worlds. “It’s as bad as it’s ever been. At least with a no deal we’d have had our 12-mile rights. At the moment, we’ve lost everything.”

Hastings signed up to Pesky after a venture to run their own wholesaling failed. The Pesky pitch, offering daybook fishermen better prices for their fish and better value to the consumer, was persuasive. They say there have been times when a fisherman would get 20p for a kilogram of lemon sole. Pesky sells them for £4.99 a fish. At some high-end fish shops, a single 500g fish can sell for £14, excluding delivery. “Lots of companies have come and gone, especially the ones that relied on export,” Joy says. “That’s why we were excited to see Pesky come in. They’re looking more at local markets and local consumers. We’ve got to get away from exporting everything we catch.”

“We’ve always been non-political,” King says. “We have to create the best opportunities we can, regardless of the situation. We want to make the distribution of value fairer, and push as much value back to the boats who put in such a ridiculous amount of effort.”

Towards the end of last year there was an awful reminder of just how much is at stake for these men and handful of women. In the early hours of November 21 the Joanna C, a 45-foot Brixham scalloper and one of Pesky’s suppliers, sank off the East Sussex coast. The crewmen Robert Morley and Adam Harper drowned; the skipper, Dave Bickerstaff, was rescued after clinging to a buoy, having escaped from underneath the capsized boat and stayed next to Robert in the water for several hours. Morley’s mother, Jackie Woolford, said: “My Robert wasn’t alone when he died. His skipper stayed with him all the time.”

“It was a stark reminder that British consumers don’t have any exposure to the risks that come with fishing,” King says. “Nothing can be said or done to make up the loss to those families. But I felt it brought people closer together. It’s why we want to keep promoting the industry and exposing people to the challenges that come with it. If we can make a good thing come of it, that’s the best thing we can do for the fishermen we lost.”

The dream of making fishing more efficient has been around for decades. From Marseille to Kerala, there have been experiments and studies in reforming the industry. Although Pesky is the leading British start-up in its field, fishing and aquaculture are attracting attention from entrepreneurs around the world. Sea to Table and Dock to Dish are comparable businesses in the US, while Blue Lobster is doing something similar in Denmark. For the most part, however, start-ups have focused on streamlining the middle sections of the market, rather than the whole ocean-to-plate journey.

Fishing has, so far, proved resistant to change, and is still conducted more or less as it was 100 years ago. Fishermen land their catch, where it is collected by a merchant who sells it on to a wholesaler and then on to individual retailers before it gets to the customer. By the time you’re squeezing a lemon over your bass, it could have been through six or seven hands, each of whom has taken a cut. There is often a complex web of personal loyalties. A chef has often worked with his supplier for years, and the supplier in turn knows to hold back the best fish for the long-term client. Pesky’s supply is necessarily limited by what the boats can catch. It’s great if you’re open-minded about which fish you want, like Chan, but less so if you know you need 200 halibut for Friday night.

In a world where everyone has a smartphone, the justification for a byzantine system of middlemen, with layers of bureaucracy between ocean and dinner table, looks increasingly thin. While Paul Joy and Mark Ball hope Pesky can provide better prices for their catch, as well as an effective domestic marketing operation, there is no magic bullet. Pesky is subject to the market like everyone else. It hasn’t dented their ambition.

“The tagline, although I hate that word, is ‘feed the world sustainably with seafood’,” says King. Fish proving difficult to sell to Europe could be exported further afield. Chalk Stream Trout, a Pesky supplier championed by Jamie Oliver and Yotam Ottolenghi, has noticed a rise in sales to the US. If the Pesky system works in the UK, it might also work elsewhere. Its next venture might be to reform tuna markets in Sri Lanka, for example, rather than taking on another British port. By building up a bank of data, King hopes Pesky will one day become a kind of “Bloomberg of fish”, a resource for administrators and officials as well as people wondering what to have for dinner.

“Industries evolve on top of themselves, rather than thinking, how would we do it if we were to start again?” he says. “That’s what we have to do: not make incremental benefits of 10% here or there, but ask ourselves how to make it 10 times better. Because that will make it more sustainable in the long run.” Between technology, sustainability, politics and dinner, almost everything has something to do with the price of those annoying fish.

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